Japanese Pork Soup

Interview date: March 16th, 2019

Chiko is a long-time hairstylist at Beverly Hills, Los Angeles. Working for 32 years in the hair industry, Chiko had cut the hair of many Hollywood celebrities that include Julie Andrews and Steve Carell. Today, with a pink-dyed pixie cut,  a grey beanie and flannel shirt, she is not your typical-looking Japanese lady. While well-known in the hair industry, Chiko is just as well-known for her March 16th pork soup in her Buddhist organization, SGI-USA.

On March 16th, 1958, Josei Toda, the second president of the SGI, served homemade pork soup to 6,000 youths who arrived cold and hungry at the base of Mount Fuji. Weak with ill health, Toda made sure the youths were warmed and nourished with the help of volunteer members. The purpose of this gathering was to entrust the youth with the responsibility of the SGI to continue the promotion of peace, culture and education through a value-creation society. 17 days later, Toda passed away (source: World Tribune). Ever since, March 16th is a day of commemorative meetings at SGI with youths taking charge, and homemade pork soup is made voluntarily by pioneer members such as Chiko.  

Chiko grew up nearby Mount Fuji and she spent most of her childhood playing outdoors. She also grew up with a nourishing miso pork and root vegetables soup, called Tonjiru in Japanese. Today, Chiko showed me how to make this cold-weather Japanese comfort food. 

Chiko especially loves this cold-weather staple because it’s made with root vegetables; Satoimo (Japanese taro), Gobo (burdock root) and carrots . “Why is Tonjiru made with root vegetables? I asked. “Warms the body”, Chiko said, “Nutritious, herbal soup.”

She happily took the Satoimo and shoved it right under my nose. A pleasant, after-rain smell of fresh soil.  “Taste of Mother Earth,” she said.

I helped Chiko to scrub the dirt off the Gobo and sliced them thin. Gobo took more preparation than the other ingredients. After slicing, you have to soak them in water for 5 to 8 minutes to dissolve any remaining dirt. Once soaked in water, the water turned a clear, reddish brown. “Gobo with this color means it was grown in quality soil”, Chiko said, “if Gobo was grown in bad soil, there would be no color”. She said the liquid can also be reserved to be used to add more depth and earthy flavor to the soup. “Also,” Chiko continued, “you can dry Gobo in the sun, then slice and lightly toast them with some oil added, then make tea from it.” 

Gobo can also be eaten raw. To my surprise, it tasted light, crunchy and sweet, almost like a cross between a water chestnut and jujube. Definitely not the imagined dark and strong earthy taste I expected from Gobo. 

Chiko showed me the final steps to make the soup. When done, she ladled the Tonjiru into two small bowls. We both carefully took a sip. The steaming broth was a delicious umami from the miso paste, while the hardy root vegetables and the chewy Konnyaku (yam cake) brought a wonderful texture to the soup. With pork belly for protein, the soup is a complete meal on its own. Perfect for the chilly winter weather.

Courtesy of Chiko:

12 servings

Ingredients:

2 sticks of Gobo/Burdock root

6 Taro/ Satoimo potatoes, peeled

3 carrots

One to 2 packs of pork belly (you can substitute with tofu puffs for vegetarians)

1 pack Konnyaku yam cake

8 cups of water

3 to 4 big spoons white/red blend miso paste

1 tbsp to 2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp sesame oil

3 spring onions, finely sliced for serving

Directions:

1. Scrub the Gobo root until clean (smaller roots brushed off). Thinly slice at diagonals and then soak in a bowl of water for 5 to 8 minutes. Reserve the Gobo root liquid. Cut the carrot at diagonals.
2. Cut the Satoimo potatoes, pork belly and Konnyaku yam cake into bite-size pieces.
3. In a large pot, saute the pork belly in 1 tbsp vegetable oil for 2 minutes, add Gobo root and saute until the pork belly starts to turn brown. Add the carrots and 1 tbsp of vegetable oil. Cover for 5 minutes.
4. Add the Konnyaku yam cake, Satoimo potatoes and 8 cups of water. Bring to boil, and skim off any scum.
5. Add 1 to 2 cups of reserved Gobo root liquid to add a depth of earthy flavors.
6. Add 3 to 4 big spoons of miso paste. Turn off the heat right after mixing.
7. Add 1 tsp of sesame oil.
8. Before serving, top the pork soup with spring onions.

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